MADE BY MASTERS
Textile History dates back to the beginning of human civilization.
Hartwick Atelier specializes in hand spun and handwoven fabrics, natural and ayurvedic dyes, and exquisite heritage handwork. These artisanal techniques rely on rare knowledge and the natural cycles of the sun, wind and rain.
Each handcrafted piece in the collection is a glimpse into the rich history, intricate process, and generations of skill that have gone into its creation.
A glossary of heritage techniques
KHADI
HANDSPUN AND HANDWOVEN, NATURAL FIBER CLOTH
HANDSPUN: Natural fibers, drawn out and twisted together by hand to form a yarn.
HANDWOVEN: Handspun yarns woven together using a handloom.
Khadi is made from handspun and handwoven natural fibers. From the harvest to the yarn to the weave, the material is made by hand without the use of electricity. It is a textile that holds the story of nature and sustainable economies, community and ancient craft.
Handloom textiles are created sustainably and hold the stories of the seasons, local agriculture and human ingenuity.
Weavers in villages across South Asia have been producing Khadi yarn from hand-spun cotton and silk for milennea.
Wearing Khadi has a different feeling than wearing industrially produced fabrics – khadi drapes and breathes with a supple softness in a rhythm that can only be created by skilled human hands. The feeling is truly luxurious.
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these imperfections for their human touch.
HAND SPUN
NATURAL FIBERS, DRAWN OUT AND TWISTED TOGETHER BY HAND TO FORM A YARN
Khadi is made from handspun and handwoven natural fibers. From the harvest to the yarn to the weave, the material is made by hand without the use of electricity. It is a textile that holds the story of nature and sustainable economies, community and ancient craft.
Mahatma Gandhi was a strong proponent of handloom Khadi. The technique and associated ideology was promoted by Gandhi to inspire self-reliance of the people, and support ancient skills and traditional crafts.
Weavers in villages across South Asia have been producing Khadi yarn from hand-spun cotton and silk for centuries.
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these nuances for their human touch.
HANDWOVEN
HANDSPUN YARNS WOVEN TOGETHER USING A HANDLOOM
The process of weaving Khadi fabric:
Cotton cultivation : cotton balls are picked by hand in the fields.
Washing : cotton fibre is separated by hand using a fine comb. This prepares the fibre for spinning.
Cleaning : the fibre is cleaned to remove last traces of dirt.
Spinning : the fibre is spun on a wheel ("charkha") and is twisted at the same time to make it stronger.
Preparation of yarn : cotton yarn is prepared on bobbins that are easy to transport to weaver's homes.
Weaving : cotton yarn is carried to artisan's homes and woven into fabric.
Dyeing : woven fabric is sent for dyeing.
Finishing : the dyed fabric is washed and cleaned and is ready for use.
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these nuances for their human touch.
BLOCK PRINTED BY HAND
PRINTED BY HAND USING HANDCARVED WOODEN BLOCKS
In India, artisans have used hand carved wooden blocks to print on handwoven fabric for nearly four thousand years.
Each block print started as a tree, then a wood block, carved by hand into sets of intricate patterns, dipped and stamped layer by layer, revealing ancient motifs of Earth and sky.
All printed fabrics in our collection are block printed - layer by layer, colour by colour - entirely by hand.
Handwork naturally results in variations in colour and placement. We cherish these nuances for their human touch.
HAND CARVED WOODEN BLOCKS
EACH COLOR IN A PRINT IS LAYERED USING A DIFFERENT BLOCK FROM THE SET
Carvers prepare a block by hand sanding and then coating the surface with a white paste so that the surface is uniform and smooth for carving.
The design is traced on to the block. For multi color prints, one block must be made for each color, creating a set of blocks for each design that will be used one at a time to layer the colors of the print.
Carvers then tap out the empty space from the wood block so that the design remains along the printing surface. This is done by hand with very small chisels.
The completed blocks are checked for accuracy and soaked in oil to cure the wood so it doesn't crack and are then ready for use in
It is an intricate process that requires skill, experience and patience.
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these nuances for their human touch.
natural dye
Derived from locally sourced plants and minerals, natural dyes draw from thousands of years of Ayurvedic knowledge.
The dyes used in our collection include indigo, henna, turmeric, marigold, pomegranate, jaggery, iron, ash, rhubarb root, mud and red clay.
Natural dyes produce subtle, layered colours with exquisite tonal variation. This artisanal work inherently results in variations and makes each piece a unique expression of natural elements.
Through the use of these ancient processes and natural dyes, the fabric gains a unique characteristic. During summer, the dye expands the pores of the fabric, making it easy for air to pass through. During winter, the pores close tighter, providing warmth.
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these nuances for their human touch.
NATURAL DYES:
ARE BIODEGRADABLE
GENERATE ZERO WASTE
HELP TO PRESERVE WATER QUALITY
CONTRIBUTE TO THE NUTRIENT CYCLE OF SOIL
AJRAKH
AJRAKH USES THE NATURAL RHYTHMS OF THE SUN, WIND, AND WATER
Master Colorists use ancient methods to create natural dyes using indigenous plants and minerals including wild indigo, pomegranate bark and seeds, tamarind, turmeric, jaggery, ash, and iron.
Using hand carved wooden blocks, Master Printers print each colour, layer by layer using resist dyeing techniques to create intricate interpretations of floral and celestial patterns. These processes give way to lustrous geometric colorscapes with deep tonal range.
Each piece requires a minimum of 16 processes, with the silk resting for at least a day between each step.
IKAT
TIED, DYED AND WOVEN
Ikat is an ancient technique for creating patterns on textiles.
The defining characteristic of ikat is that the patterns are dyed onto the yarns before the fabric is woven. This is achieved through a masterful process of resist dyeing on either the warp or weft fibers, or on both.
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these nuances for their human touch.
gota paTti
THE HISTORY OF GOTA PATTI CAN BE TRACED BACK TO THE 3RD CENTURY
Gota Patti is a type of Indian embroidery from Rajasthan, India originally used in garments for Rajput and Mughal royalty as a way of reconstructing, mending, patching, tailoring, and reinforcing cloth by hand.
Gota Patti uses the applique technique. Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down to create elaborate patterns, intricate detail, and vibrant metallic color.
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these nuances for their human touch.
JAMDANI
JAMDANI WEAVERS RECEIVED UNESCO CULTURAL HERITAGE OF HUMANITY DESIGNATION 2013
'The art of weaving is exactly that—an art. It requires skill, precision and rhythm, which when repeated over and over, produces a delicate weave.
Jamdani weaves, however, require more than this. Since the defining aspect of this textile are its rich motifs, which are all intricately added by hand, Jamdani is touted as the most advanced hand weaving technique in the world.
Each motif has to be inlaid into the fabric by adding denser threads to fine warp threads, and this process is so time intensive that on a usual day, an artisan can weave only between a quarter and one inch of fabric. That shockingly translates to a year if we're looking at a handwoven Jamdani sari. No wonder the traditional art of weaving Jamdani was declared a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2013.'
– Vogue India
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these imperfections for their human touch.
BANARAS BROCADE
BROCADE IS A CLASS OF RICHLY DECORATIVE HANDLOOM FARICS, OFTEN MADE IN COLOURED SILKS.
Brocade is a class of richly decorative handloom fabrics, often made in coloured silks.
Banaras brocade is a living skill practiced by few weavers in Varanasi, home to one of the oldest textile weaving traditions of the world.
The patterns are created by transfixing or thrusting the pattern thread between the warp. (In regular weaving, the weft thread passes over and under the warp thread). When brocades are woven, special threads are transfixed in between the weft over warp.
This lustrous heirloom fabric often features intricate designs in Zari (gold and silver threads)
Handwork naturally results in variations. We cherish these imperfections for their human touch.
